Bhutan in Brief

Unlike many of its peers, Bhutan lends itself to compact trips (although the longer you can spend here the better). There are two key considerations if you opt for a shorter visit: leaving suitable time for acclimatisation (you’re landing at 2,200m and then going higher) and factoring in a night in Nepal, India or Thailand, in at least one direction, to accommodate the somewhat clunky flight connections. This route has been built with multi-destination travel in mind, as those necessary stopovers are easily extended into full dual-country trips.

Picturesque Paro

Before tackling any serious pilgrimage trekking, there’s time to take stock and look around in Paro. Picture-postcard pretty, with traditional-style buildings lining its attractive main street, Paro is somewhere to wander at leisure, take artistic photos, peruse local handicrafts and indulge in a bit of cafe-hopping. If you feel inclined, take a wander to the famously impressive Rinpung Dzong, or spend time with a local family who’ll welcome you with a home-cooked meal in their farmhouse kitchen. You can even roll up your sleeves and get involved with the cooking. Try your hand at making the fiery ema datse (large chillies in a cheese sauce) which is a staple base of Bhutanese cuisine and the perfect combination of comfortingly creamy and head-poppingly spicy! Just right for filling your belly before a heavy day’s hiking...

A breath of fresh air in Haa

Just over the Chele La from Paro, the Haa Valley is one of the smallest, most isolated districts in the kingdom, adorned with pristine alpine forests and tranquil mountain peaks. Home to a number of nomadic herders, Haa’s wooded hills provide an ideal location for hiking and mountain biking, but due to its lack of tourist infrastructure, and strictly controlled development, it remains one of the least-visited valleys in western Bhutan. 

This lesser-visited region is certainly beautiful, but so are all of Bhutan’s picturesque, sheltered valleys, so what makes Haa feel so special? For us, it’s the immersion and refreshing reality of the area’s local farm-stays. Away from the rather sanitised, albeit sumptuous, luxury of Bhutan’s high-end lodge hotels, a night at local farm-stay brings you comfortable, characterful accommodation with a family-like welcome. The villages themselves are great to wander through, speaking with locals and getting a genuine sense of their daily rhythms - a panoramic introduction to real-world life in Bhutan.

Pause in Punakha

Bhutan’s many valleys, nestling in sheltered seclusion between its unspoilt peaks, are bubbles which feel totally apart from the ups and downs of the rest of the world. Punakha Valley offers a taste of this mid-mountain life without having to spend too much time on the road. Make sure you pause at the Dochu La Pass to enjoy a leisurely cuppa and appreciate the phenomenal Himalayan vistas along the way.

Punakha’s low-level terrain is lush with rice and fruit plantations that thrive in the valley’s warmer, sheltered landscape, quenched with the waters of the region’s two major rivers. At their confluence, the magnificent white and russet edifice of the Punakha Dzong rests against the riverbank. Stroll through rice fields to reach Chime Lhakhang, 'the Temple of the Divine Madman', and eat lunch with a local farming family as you discuss the temple’s rather, erm, ‘fruity’ legend! You can even spend time in conversation with student monks at the Nalanda Buddhist Institute. Whatever you choose to explore, make sure you leave time to sit and soak up the unique valley atmosphere - the serenity here is absolute.

Go off piste to the Tiger’s Nest 

The Tiger’s Nest, or Paro Taktsang, is one of Bhutan’s most recognisable landmarks, and exerts a strong pull on visitors to the country. The only way to reach the monastery is on foot, so prepare yourself for a hearty trek through the pine forests. Although visitor numbers to the country are limited, it can sometimes feel like every single one is on the pathway towards Paro Taktsang. It’s easy to understand why, as it is a phenomenal place, clinging to the cliff-face with the rays of the sun glancing blindingly from its walls. Our focus is always on keeping away from routes with the heaviest footfall, and there are ways to see the monastery that offer a less crowded perspective. 

Our favourite way to reach the Tiger’s Nest is from above, which you can do if you camp above the monastery overnight and drop down to the complex first thing in the morning. Set out early and arrive well before most, giving you plenty of time to wander through the halls, exploring the small temples, meditation caves and ornate shrines, as the smell of incense fills the air.