The Moluccas
The Moluccas, otherwise known as the Indonesian spice islands, have a high-profile trading history that is both fascinating and horrific, but its the archipelago's natural heritage that provides its real attraction. Away from Ambon city’s bustling local life and grand architecture, emerald green, vegetation-clad volcanoes punch from the Pacific, bird-filled tropical rainforests lead to traditional villages, and untold uninhabited islands promise exciting underwater adventures. Getting here isn't straightforward, and the over-water stilted bungalows where you stay can be very basic, but for a true step into a more remote and rustic side of Indonesia, you won't go far wrong.
Three things to do in the Moluccas
Obviously there's a lot more, this is just to get you started...
A sustainable setting on Seram
As your longboat floats down the Salawai River, keep your eyes firmly fixed on both sides of the banks. This area of Manusela National Park is known for saltwater crocodiles, and despite the beautiful birds and butterflies flitting from the forest foliage you can't help but be on guard. But then, suddenly, the forest clears and gives way to small groups of sustainable sago farmers working the land. In many other areas of South-East Asia, this sort of setting would be prime real estate for a riverside resort, but on Seram Island things are still undisturbed by that level of tourism. Local people rely on fishing and agriculture for employment and, rather refreshingly, it's still way off the mainstream radar.
Cultural connections
Visiting a traditional community village in the Moluccas, hidden by thick jungle, is a privilege; the chance to meet with people leading different lives from much of the world. Several villages in the Moluccas have only recently been connected to electricity, and life moves at a pace that's more in line with the natural rhythms of the days and seasons. Listen to your guide, who will interpret and help you chat with local people. Avoid taking photos, out of respect for village elders, graciously accept a cup of strong rice wine if offered, and learn a little about a way of life that now only survives in small pockets of Indonesia’s vast archipelago.
Simple pleasures
Waking to the sounds of the sea gently lapping around a stilted overwater bungalow is absolutely dreamy. In this extremely rustic setting, where the WiFi signal is non-existent, it's the pure, simple pleasures of the natural surroundings that mean the most. Take Teluk Sawai Bay, for example. This amazing underwater area lends itself effortlessly to snorkelling - the sea is so clear you barely need to wear a mask to make out the fish swimming over the shallow coral reefs. Step out of the water and onto the white sand at Ora Beach, where there's a hammock tied between two palms ready and waiting. If it's uninterrupted serenity you're after, Seram Island is the place to hang your sun hat.
