Beyond the Golden Route

Whilst there is still a place for the popular Tokyo-Kyoto-Osaka route - although it’s always tricky to avoid the crowds in high season, especially when the cherry blossom is out - Japan has so much more nuance and variation to offer beyond its cinematic cities.

Tokyo: the Future with History

Before stepping aside from the usual trail, take a moment to absorb the sensory overload of Japan’s mega-capital. After all, to misquote a familiar phrase, if you’re tired of Tokyo, you’re tired of life! No other city has quite such a reputation for forging a path into the future, with slick engineering, contemporary art and design, entire electronic-devoted districts, and robots that can serve you coffee, dinner, and check you into your hotel. If you’re into anime and manga, kawaii cute, street style or almost any niche culture, you’ll find it all in Tokyo: a city that encapsulates so much of what the world thinks it knows about Japan.

But Tokyo is just as much a window to Japan’s past, and shaped by its history. Temples and traditional gardens nestle between the skyscrapers, while Asakusa, the city’s oldest Geisha district, and Sensoji, the oldest temple in Tokyo, are oases amid the clamour. The low-rise neighborhoods of Yanaka and Nezu are home to traditional wooden buildings, shrines, cemeteries, izakayas and old-style shops, alongside a thriving arts scene.

Samurai, Soy & Sake in Kakunodate

A world away from Tokyo, in Honshu’s Tohoku region, is Kakaunodate, a former samurai stronghold nestled amidst the mountains. No high-rise, neon or nightlife here, other than late visits to the local onsen baths, but for those seeking the fabled small town, rural Japan without the tourist sheen, Kakunodate is it. Known as the ‘Land of the Samuri’ or ‘Little Kyoto’, the town’s green-pathed riverside, well-preserved streets and historic residences provide a living glimpse of the region’s past. The timeless atmosphere feels real, not contrived; there is no hint of Hollywood here.

Visit local artisans who craft beautiful pieces from cherry blossom wood, concoct highly-superior soy sauce, and brew potent sake, preserving these traditional skills for future generations. Take the opportunity to meet a few ‘locals’ of the four-legged kind, too: the famed local breed of Akita dogs. If you like the vibes, extend your stay to take walks through the surrounding area, always accompanied by your guide and their trusty bear bell, and travel by local train and bicycle to nearby lakes and villages.

Sendai Feasts & Scenic Cruising

Travel often brings contrasts, as you’ll see when you step out of the rural bubble and into Sendai, Tohoku’s largest city, home to around a million residents. Boasting more than its fair share of Samurai history, Sendai is known locally as being sumi-yasui or ‘easy to live in’ for its navigable centre and moderate climate. It may not be rural isolation, but it’s no Tokyo! Rather, you’ll find a relaxed place to explore, especially if (like us!) you like to discover a place by eating it! Join one of our gastronomy-loving guides for a night of locally-centred eating and drinking in historic alleys crammed with izakayas, which are essentially Japanese pubs, and serve some of Japan’s best ‘fast’ food. Venture past the curtained entrances, with advice on hand on matters of etiquette, and dig in.

A short train ride from Sendai is Shiogama, home to a local fishmarket, a great alternative to Tsukiji in Tokyo. Pick out fresh seafood from the stalls for breakfast, and keep grazing your way through the town. Board a boat to take in the rocky, tree bedecked islands of Matsushima Bay, known as one of Japan’s top three scenic views, although given the many beautiful vistas Japan offers, that’s always a controversial list!

Nagano: Gateway to the Alps

Few places demonstrate the benefits of taking a little more time, or stepping off the usual path, as well as Nagano. Only just off the Golden Route, and often passed through in favour of Matsumoto, Kanazawa or Takayama, hopping off the train for a night or two in Nagano is a great call. Visit the imposing Zenkoji Temple, founded in the 7th Century, to take part in a goma fire ceremony, gain further insight into Zen Buddhist meditation from a resident monk, and join a unique walking meditation. Stay in a simple shukubo, or temple lodging, for an even deeper understanding of one of the most important and impressive temples in Japan.

Slick transport links make daytrips to Togakushi a piece of cake. Take relaxed walks between forest shrines, a great alternative to the Nakasendo Way, or cycle through the picturesque countryside. Those keen to soak up some more history can head to Matsusuhiro Samurai Town, former home of the famed Sanada Clan, while Nagano Station offers dedicated bargain hunters easy access to Japan’s compelling 100 Yen shops, where everything costs… well you’ve guessed it!

Community Life in Toyama

A vast jigsaw of rice fields spreads out over the Tonami Plain, turning shades of russet, green, gold and snowy-white through the seasons. This beautiful landscape, interspersed with houses and small wooded areas, is known as dispersed settlement. It grew as farmers built their homes at the centre of their own fields in order to work within their natural environment. Relatively few visitors make it to this less-accessible area, but those who do are welcomed into local communities keen to demonstrate their heritage, the fruits of their traditional farming techniques and their treasured art and traditions. 

Spend restful nights in an 120-year-old renovated folkhouse and take time to stroll through the neighbourhood. Explore traditional Gassho-zukuri thatched wooden houses in the serene village of Kaminashi, step into a historic landscape which embodies harmony between nature and humans, and experience a way of life in danger of being lost. Support local communities, keep it slow, tread with care, and make connections.

A Different Kyoto…

Most first visits to Japan include a few days in iconic Kyoto, and we fully understand why. This beautiful town’s historic streets, temples, Nijo Castle and bamboo forests exert a powerful pull on travellers’ imaginations. Respectful evening meanders through Gion sound delightful, and it’s a fantastic place to learn about Japanese cookery, traditional tea ceremonies, Taiko drumming and the proper way to enjoy sake. However, Kyoto’s ever-increasing popularity doesn’t come without a few problems, and constant crowds can make the experience a little less ideal. 

Step up ‘Kyoto by the Sea’: a picturesque region bordering the Sea of Japan that’s facing the challenges of overtourism and finding its way to sustainability. Stay in Amanohashidate, home to the ‘bridge to heaven’ - a stunning natural sandbar which, according to local customs, is best viewed in a slightly unusual way! - or head to the fishing village of Ine and stay in one of over 200 converted wooded boathouses known as funaya. Take slow-paced walks through the surrounding area, or cycle further out to explore the wider peninsula, home to skilled artisans re-inventing traditional crafts for the modern world. Unwind by the sea and take time to process all the fascinating and contrasting sides of Japan you’ve had the pleasure of seeing.

The Selective Route

For a little more me-time, add on a couple of nights in the nearby hot spring town of Kinosaki Onsen, to practice the art of Sotoyu Meugri or ‘hot spring hopping’. Alternatively, head to foodie-friendly Osaka, or return to Tokyo for a final taste of big city life.