The vast plateau of Isaan, fringed by the Mekong and sharing borders with Laos and Cambodia, is part of the region’s lush agricultural rice bowl. This area of rural Thailand is rarely visited by tourists and offers the chance to step off the beaten track and experience a different side to Thai history and culture.
This is what many people mean when they reminisce about ‘Thailand as it used to be’, and many of its pleasures lie in exploring tranquil wats, visiting out of the way villages, and enjoying the peace and quiet.
Stumble upon majestic Khmer temple complexes and prehistoric archaeological sites hidden among the farms, villages and rice fields. Cruise along the banks of the Mekong, and visit some of Thailand’s best – and least-known – National Parks.
You’ll have the chance to learn a little more about how many Thai people live, perhaps staying with a family in a local homestay and sampling the spicy, fermented street food that the region is famous for.
One of Isaan’s spiritual guides, Ajahn Mun (1870-1949), founded Thailand’s Forest Tradition. He wandered the forests and mountains, following the bends of the Mekong, enjoying its simplicity and peace. We can’t think of a better way to experience the region today.
Discover the splendour of 11th-century Khmer temples at Phimai and Phanom Rung, far from the crowds of Angkor Wat.
Cruise down the Mekong, with Cambodia and Laos almost within touching distance. Enjoy a sunset meal, stop off to see ancient rock carvings or travel to the most eastern point in Thailand at Khong Jiam, where the roaring Mekong meets the deep blue Mun river.
Follow in the footsteps of Ajahn Mun in the dense forests and National Parks. Khao Yai National Park is a UNESCO World Heritage site, replete with waterfalls, wild elephants, hornbills, deer, bats and monkeys.
Explore the intriguing rock formations of the Korat Grand Canyon whose large, crater-filled rock reef (Sam Phan Bok) has been eroded over the years by the flood season’s rushing Mekong tides.
Travel back in time at Isaan’s impressive archaeological sites, including the UNESCO-listed Ban Chiang, where ancient pottery and burial artefacts date back over 5,000 years, and visit the rock art, stone houses and mysterious rock formations at Phu Phra Bat.
Outside of northern Thailand’s small cities there aren’t many traditionally ‘five-star deluxe’ properties, but this is a big part of Isaan’s charm - you’re truly away from the usual tourist infrastructure and sampling a less technically frenetic way of life. Don’t let the rural tranquillity lull you into thinking it’s all peace and simplicity though - this region is the beating heart of the agricultural north, with its own distinctive rhythms. There are some characterful accommodation options deep in Isaan’s interior, and we can arrange immersive homestays in local villages where you can experience Isaan’s unique culture and warm welcome.
Isaan is home to some of Thailand’s tastiest and most well-loved dishes. The heat of the region is reflected in its liberal spicing, and dishes tend to be relatively light, using only a little oil: think papaya salad (som tam) and fragrant soups (tom saeb). Salt, chilli and punchy fermented sauces are used to create aromatic dishes like weeping tiger steak (charcoal-grilled brisket) or jaew mak keua (a chilli-spiked relish made with roasted Thai aubergine, garlic and shallot) that goes well with pretty much everything!
Some of the best experiences in rural Thailand can be had simply walking or cycling through the beautiful Isaan countryside and welcoming villages. The lack of an extensive transportation network outside of the major towns makes for peaceful, rewarding trips down dirt roads past rice fields, farms, and traditional dwellings. This isn’t a region to rush about in, but where each journey can be savoured as part of the overall experience - be patient, and enjoy the ride.
Isaan never fails to surprise, and one particular delight awaits in Nong Khai. As one of the region’s northernmost provinces, Nong Khai provides an atmospheric gateway into Laos, and is separated from its neighbour only by the width of the Mekong. Thai mystic, Bunleua Sulilat, created a surreal and enchanting sculpture park here in 1978, filled with hundreds of Buddha statues in all styles and sizes. Both spiritual and kitsch, it’s a very pleasant artistic pocket to stumble upon.