Hokkaido, Your Way

Whether you’re a first-time visitor to Japan hoping to go further, or a returning traveller looking for a deeper experience, Hokkaido will expand your horizons. Those who do venture this far north are rewarded with wide skies spread out over protected National Parks, sheltering lakes, stark volcanic terrain, and wildlife that simply can’t be found anywhere else in the country. 

At the foot of Mount Hakodate… 

There’s something about the coastal city of Hakodate, lapped by the sea from both sides, which just feels relaxed, making it the perfect place to ease into Hokkaido’s rhythms. This city’s warmth stems from its practice in welcoming visitors goes all the way back to being the first port in Japan to open to international trade in the 1850s. Its multicultural history shines through in the pastel-hued public halls, former consulates and churches of the Motomachi district at the foot of Mt Hakodate, aptly described by Selective Asia’s Sarah as ‘Accidentally Wes Anderson’! Mooch between the historic buildings, and wander down to the harbour to stroll through its intriguing maze of red brick warehouses, shops and cafes. 

A short tram ride takes you to the Goryokaku Fortress military base, where you can ascend the observation tower and look down on its famously star-shaped walls. As dusk falls, take the ropeway up Mt Hakodate to let your gaze follow the twinkling lights that connect mountain and mainland, or join a local guide for a fun evening of bar hopping, including mingling with the locals at a traditional standing bar.

Home from home

The entrepreneurial community of Kuromatsunai, on Hokkaido’s southern curve, reinvigorated their small town and surrounding forest in a rather innovative way. They created space for several specially-constructed rental houses, firstly to tempt Japanese city dwellers to the countryside, and later to offer foreign visitors a true taste of rural Hokkaido. 

With a local guide by your side, discover the close relationship between the local community and the natural environment, taking a gentle walk around the village before hopping into a canoe for a peaceful paddle along the forest waterways. Support local businesses, share stories with the community, and eat everything, including a barbecue in a small yet surprisingly cosy garage - it’s tradition! A stay in Kuromatsunai is a rare chance to spend time experiencing rural community living, Hokkaido-style, and breathe in the restorative natural surroundings. 

No-ski Niseko 

Although it’s known for its snowy-white winter slopes, the ski resort of Niseko looks just as great in green. The summer season is perfect for exploring the area on foot, from gentle walks to tougher hikes, with the ski lifts offering handy access to higher trails. Enjoy panoramic views of a landscape sculpted by heavy snowfall, rushing water and volcanic activity, including the perfect cone of Mt Yotei, dubbed Hokkaido’s Mt Fuji. Enjoy some of Japan’s finest produce from the surrounding fertile farmland, and find a cosy spot to try the area's beautifully high-quality sake and beer - all that clear snowmelt water creates some tasty locally-brewed tipples.

Niseko is also a great base for visiting the rugged Shikotsu Toya National Park, named after its two famously sparkling caldera lakes. The surrounding forests are home to several endemic species, including Ezo foxes, alpine hares and Black Woodpeckers. Nearby Jikgokudani, also known as Hell Valley, is less scary than its nickname suggests! The moniker actually stems from a rather lyrical interpretation of its steam vents and sulphorous streams. Unsurprisingly, this area is well known for its hot springs which are said to boast soothing and healing qualities. If you’re partial to a hot spring bath, try Noboribetsu Onsen as an alternative base for your explorations. 

Vintage Yoichi

The small, coastal town of Yoichi is still a beautifully off-the-beaten-path destination, but may be due a popularity boost fairly soon thanks to the region’s booming wine-producing industry; the coastal climate and fertile soil make it the perfect spot for vineyards. For the moment, though, overseas visitors are on the rare side - when members of the Selective Team visited, it made the local paper!

Discover the delights of our favourite local micro-winery, so new that you can’t even buy a bottle yet! Wine tastings, however, are definitely on the menu, as (if you can handle it) are whisky tastings at the venerable Nikka distillery back in town. Established by the father of Japanese whisky, Taketsuru Masataka, the distillery also includes exhibits that reveal the fascinating story of his life. Stay in rustic, modern accommodation, and settle down to lavish dinners that blend local produce, western-inspired dishes and the very best of the area’s wines - don’t mind if we do!

Social Sapporo

No trip to Hokkaido is complete without a pause in the island's largest and best-known city, Sapporo. For a Japanese metropolis, it’s surprisingly easy to navigate, with a compact centre from which the city spreads out in an orderly grid. Odori Park is the peaceful heart of the city, and one of the bases for the famous Sapporo Snow Festival, should you be there in the season. Take a gentle wander past the clock tower, markets and parks to the observation deck at the Okurayama Jump Stadium - venue for the 1972 Winter Olympics. 

The city really comes to life in the evenings, especially in Susukino, the largest entertainment district in the north, which is where you’ll find this city’s neon lights, izakayas and karaoke boxes. The extensive underground shopping areas are worth a visit, and they really come into their own during the winter as a welcome respite from the freezing temperatures. Fill up on all you can eat in Ramen Alley’s famous eateries, sit down to a Genghis Khan barbeque, and indulge your sweet tooth with a shime-parfait made with fresh Hokkaido cream. 

Hokkaido’s Open Road

It won’t work for everyone, but getting comfortable with the idea of self-drive for summer holidays in Hokkaido can really open up your options, as public transport options are more limited compared to the majority of Japan. The roads are quiet, other drivers courteous, and they drive on the left. When conditions get icy in winter, however, we recommend leaving the roads to the professionals and engaging a local driver to take the wheel.

Some of our favourite stops for a summer self-drive in Hokkaido include visits to the island’s backwaters, the wetlands of Kushiro Shitsugen National Park, and Shiretoko National Park (whose name means ‘End of the Earth’). Local boats depart from the park’s coast in the hope of seeing whales and dolphins, and even bears back on the shore. Take the high road to the National Parks of Akan Mashu and Daisetsuzan for dramatic diverse views from the walking trails, and enjoy some of Japan’s most beautiful, unspoilt landscapes.

Winter Wonderland

As autumn turns to winter, Hokkaido becomes a glistening landscape of snow and ice - the perfect setting for the phenomenal winter sculptures of the Sapporo Snow Festival and others. Like all Japan’s high-profile seasonal events, you’ll need to plan well in advance to be there during the height of the celebrations. If you’d rather avoid the snow festival crowds, there are plenty of ways to enjoy Hokkaido’s winter wonderland away from the limelight.

North eastern Hokkaido is particularly magical during its short winter visiting window. Head up in the hope of spotting the famous Red-crowned Cranes, a majestic symbol of Japan, and the rare Steller’s Sea Eagles soaring and swooping over the coast. See swans unwinding in the hot mineral waters, spy tracks of bears, glimpse foxes and deer through the snow, and watch the skies for other birdlife. An especially sought-after prize in this region is a view of the dynamic ice floes. Don a dry suit for a wintery walk to the edges of the ice, and take a plunge into the sea for a chilly adrenaline rush! The best way to warm up, as ever, is in a steaming hot onsen - bliss.